Monday whispers: Jean-Luc Brendel or the wonders of the cook-gardener, Jacques Rolancy a chic bistro-style MOF in Lorgues, farewell to Jean-Paul Passédat, next generation at the Auberge de la Forêt, Ohad Amzalleg or Tel- Aviv to Paris | Gilles Pudlowski’s blog

Jean-Luc Brendel or the wonders of the cook-gardener

Jean-Luc Brendel © GP

He is one of the most unique great chefs in Alsace, present, yes, for forty years in Riquewhir, who started with a winstub, while his mother held the Three Hares in his hometown, in l he Strasbourg case, who was trained there and at Zimmer-Sengel, transformed his winstub into a gastronomic table, doubling it as a popular tavern in the main street of the “Alsatian Mont Saint Michel”. In the meantime, he has imagined an extraordinary garden, on the edge of the vineyards or the forest, where he grows melon and watermelon, in addition to tomatoes of old varieties, herbs and traditional vegetables. This magician of taste, this fabulous elf, is Jean-Luc Brendel, a conquering green star at Michelin, who could very well collect a second star. It is true that everything this mischievous wizard offers is dazzlingly clear, under the watchful eye of his sister Fabienne, who explains the symphonic menus with patience and science, and the complicity of the learned sommelier Anne Humbrecht – we once lived with Bernard Begat at the Moulin du Kaegy in Steinbrunn-le-Bas, then, for sixteen years, at Schoenenbourg with François Kiener – who combines an imaginative vocabulary and passionate enthusiasm to comment on the best Alsace wines that accompany them. What awaits you there? Lively, fresh, serious, Like this this fabulous verse marrying trumpet squash from Albenga and yellow oyster mushroom with its sapid and light sauce to which the delicate sylvaner 2021 from the Faller estate in Kaysersberg gives an extra dimension. We tell you everything very quickly.

Jacques Rolancy a chic bistro-style MOF in Lorgues

Jacques Rolancy © AA

He was the little king of Nice on rue Alphonse Karr, at Rolancy’s and at Bistrot des Viviers. Defeated by the Covid, Jacques Rolancy had to close his two houses, but like the phoenix, here it is reborn from its ashes, transplanting itself to Lorgues, in the heart of the Var hinterland, playing an enticing bistronomic score. MOF 1996 Trained by Pierre Orsi in Lyon, Alain Chapel in Mionnay, Joël Robuchon at Jamin, Philippe Legendre at Taillevent, Jacques Rolancy was twice starred at the Auberge des Templiers in Bézards and, for eleven years, chef at the Hilton on Park Lane in London. In the summer tranquility of summer, its new restaurant with large terrace, a historic oil mill located at the foot of the Saint-Martin collegiate church and a stone’s throw from one of the largest markets in the region, exudes gluttony and serenity. To know everything, click here.

Farewell to Jean-Paul Passedat

Jean-Paul Passédat © DR

He was, before Gérald, his son, the man of Petit Nice in Marseille, transforming the family hotel on the Kennedy cornice, which was the house of Lucie, a distinguished singer, into a luxury hotel classified as Relais & Châteaux. Himself, born in Marseilles, in December 1933, within the Petit Nice itself, will have to choose between the Opéra Comique, of which he holds a first prize, and the kitchen, of which he has a CAP. It is for the latter that he will opt, obtaining a star, in 1977, then two four years later. In the meantime, he will have had a swimming pool dug, developing the house culinary palette, tinged with Périgord roots, in homage to Germain, his father. Between the pâté de foie gras and the red mullet, the truffle omelet and the oysters from Bouzigues, it is the latter who will win out. Jean-Paul Passédat will push Gérald to succeed him having him have lunch at Alain Chapel, where he will have his revelation, then sending him, in particular, on an internship with his friends Guérard and Troisgros, seeing his triumph and the 3rd star arrive when the register of the Petit Nice, which he will have seen grow up, will become purely a sailor and will obtain the 3rd star in 2008, the first in Marseille. At the same time benevolent and laughing, attentive and warm, Jean-Paul Passédat, who left us last week at the age of 88, will have left only sweet memories, transmitting to his son a taste for beauty, a sense of rhythm, a love of things well done and the desire to please others. Condolences to Gerald and his family.

Generation change at the Auberge de la Forêt

Hugo Petri and Alexandra Schmitt © GP

The Auberge de la Forêt, on the edge of the Abreschviller forest, its little tourist train, memories of Erckmann-Chatrian, and especially of Alexandre Chatrian, born nearby, in Grand Soldat, where his parents worked by Christelle Brua, the current pastry chef at the Elysée, you know her by heart, if you read this blog faithfully. Nicole Risch, who carried it for a long time and made it an institution in Lorraine, has retired, leaving the home to her children. Hugo Petri, the son, who made beautiful houses, such as the Abbaye de la Bussière in Burgundy, the Cheval Blanc in Lembach in Alsace and the Hostellerie de la Montagne des Natali in Combey-les-deux-Eglises. He manages the stove with sagacity, while his sister, Alexandra Schmitt, directs the service with firmness and sureness. The menus look good, the products are of quality, the preparations meticulous and the house faces success without difficulty despite peaks of 60 seats at lunch during the week to 120 on Sundays, with service on the terrace under a magnificent framework imagined in the vast 3ha park, where soon, at the end of the year, work on a hotel project will begin. In the meantime, we enjoy there without manner of things well done and presented with elegance. Including a foie gras marinated in Muscat with its apricot chutney or a fine cannelloni of trout from the Vosges with zucchini in caramel and lemon gel. We’ll tell you about it very soon.

Ohad Amzalleg or Tel Aviv to Paris

Ohad Amzelleg © GP

His name is Ohad Amzalleg, was born in Beerscheva, Israel, on the edge of the desert, 50 years ago, worked in Tel Aviv, at Topolopompo, one of the trendy restaurants in the gourmet capital of the Near East , as well as in Jerusalem, at the Mamilla Hotel. He took over the stoves of Shouk, a Levantine restaurant on rue de Lancry in the 10th arrondissement in Paris, launched in the past by Pierre Bouko-Levy, who we knew at Miznon. He works above and in view of the large loft-style room to awaken the sleeping taste buds with a fine, skilful, complex, colorful cuisine. We start with Mechamena bread – homemade Moroccan bread with honey and pistachios, accompanied by labné, dukkah, kalamata olives, padron peppers and pollack marinated in paprika. We continue with the duo of cauliflower, roasted and creamed, with its confit egg yolk, cauliflower crumble with parmesan and salty sweet mint leaves. In short, here is a funny, lively, inventive cuisine, close to what Eyal Shani offers for example in Tel Aviv or at the Mahané Yehuda, by the team of Assaf Granit and Uri Navon in Jerusalem. To know everything, click here.

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